At 64 years old, Brent Okita has done something no one else ever has: he’s stood on the summit of Mount Rainier for the 600th time. That new world record alone is staggering. But it doesn’t tell the whole story, not even close.
Brent has been guiding with RMI Expeditions since 1986. That’s nearly four decades of early alpine starts, whiteout navigation, bluebird summits, and shoulder-season storms. It’s thousands of clients coached up the Muir Snowfield, hundreds of rope teams safely guided down Disappointment Cleaver, and an untold number of wise decisions that kept people safe, calm, and moving upward.
He’s summited Rainier more than anyone in history. When asked how he feels on the summit, Brent said:
“It feels great, we have perfect weather up here and a perfect group and I couldn’t be happier.”
A Legacy Built One Step at a Time
Brent’s reputation in the guiding world goes far beyond Rainier. He summited Everest in 1991 via the North Ridge (the same line climbed by Mallory and Irvine in 1924) and returned in 2001 as part of the famed Mallory-Irvine Search Expedition. He has guided 23 consecutive successful McKinley expeditions in Denali National Park, led climbs on the Vinson Massif in Antarctica, Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, and mountains around the world. But Mount Rainier has always been home base.
There’s something fitting about that. Rainier isn’t just a proving ground for new alpinists; it’s a teacher. It rewards patience, consistency, and care. Brent has made a life of listening to that mountain.
He’s also helped shape what it means to be an RMI guide. As a Senior Guide and longtime Supervisor, Brent has mentored generations of young guides, passing down not just rope systems and crampon techniques, but the values that define our work: humility, precision, compassion, and perseverance.
When asked if he has any advice for future guides, Brent said:
"Guides, pay attention to what's happening out there... it's the details that really matter. I think that's why I've had such a successful life; I pay attention to the details."
Ask any guide who’s worked a climb with Brent, and you’ll hear the same thing: he leads by example. Quietly. Steadily. With the kind of grace that’s earned, not taught.
More Than a Number
Climbing Rainier 600 times means spending close to two years of your life above 10,000 feet. It means learning every subtle shift in the glacier’s surface. It means knowing how the sun hits the Cleaver in late June and where to find shelter in a whiteout at 13,000 feet. But most of all, it means showing up, day after day, year after year, with care, professionalism, and joy.
Back in 2016, when Brent completed his 500th summit of Rainier, someone asked him if retirement was on the horizon. His answer? “I’ll keep guiding for the foreseeable future.” This time, when asked what's next, Brent said:
"More climbing, more Mount Rainier, it's what I do!"
Guiding with Heart: Brent’s Bond with Climbers
Over hundreds of climbs, Brent has built more than a record; he’s built relationships. For many clients, their time with Brent on the mountain is transformative, not just because of the summit, but because of who was leading the way.
Dan Kemp recalls a moment when Brent made the tough call to turn back due to unsafe conditions. "I know we could have made it to the top," he said, "but Brent didn’t like how unsafe the second route was. I admire that." That trust in his judgment is a consistent theme across client stories.
Mark Tellez described him as "everything you would hope for in a mountain guide," adding, "He had our trust on the mountain. He is understanding but also firm when required to keep folks moving and things safe."
For James Huggins, the impact was deeply personal. "There was just something about him that made me feel like this was going to work out," he wrote. "His calm, straightforward and subtle humor resonated with me... Having him embrace me at the crater was a moment I’ll never forget."
These are the proof that Brent (and all our guides) impact goes far beyond statistics. He builds confidence, fosters camaraderie, and turns big mountain experiences into lifelong memories.
A Quiet Celebration, A Shared Milestone
For all of us at RMI, Brent’s 600th summit isn’t just a personal achievement; it’s a moment of reflection and gratitude. It reminds us what’s possible when passion meets purpose. When experience is paired with humility. When a lifetime of small, thoughtful decisions adds up to something extraordinary.
We’re proud to call Brent a colleague, a mentor, and a friend. And we’re honored to celebrate this milestone with the broader mountaineering community. Because while summits may be counted one at a time, legacies are built over seasons, years, and relationships forged on the rope.
Congratulations, Brent. And thank you for kicking the steps, the teaching, and the example you’ve set for all of us.
